Cover story / Elif Batuman -- My Holy Land vacation / Tom Bissell -- Chiefing in Cherokee / Stephanie Elizondo Griest -- Cliffhanger / Peter Frick-Wright -- The ones who left / Jackie Hedeman -- The big leap / Leslie Jamison -- Refugees hear a foreign word: welcome / Jodi Kantor and Catrin Einhorn -- Finding the forgotten / Randall Kenan -- Waiting on a whale at the end of the world / Saki Knafo -- Plum crazy / Gwendolyn Knapp -- Land of the lost / David Kushner -- On the road / Gideon Lewis-Kraus -- The secrets of the wood wide web / Robert Macfarlane -- Volunteering for the harvest / Ann Mah -- The away team / Alexis Okeowo -- A palpable history / Tim Parks -- Eva, she kill her one daughter / Shelley Puhak -- One person means alone / Elizabeth Lindsey Rogers -- Citizen Khan / Kathryn Schulz -- No amount of traffic or Instagrammers or drunks can take the magic out of (semi-) wilderness / Wells Tower -- My father's house / Reggie Ugwu -- The currency of moons / Kim Wyatt.